L’air du temps

Wants to go their own way off the beaten path, but still be at the center of the action

Chef Sang-Hoon Degeimbre offers pastoral gastronomy: down-to-earth, low-key, close to sacred, and constantly in motion. Despite the sense of utter perfection, L’air du temps still feels easy and intimate. Somehow, the interior conflicts with what is presented on the plate. The space inside is unnecessarily stiff, perhaps serving as a contrast to the vibrant, creative, and beautiful dishes crafted with ingredients from nearby farmers and growers — or from the restaurant’s own farms just outside their window. If you glance at the wine list, you will notice a preference for wines from Savoie and Jura, along with an assortment of Austrian wines. The full experience is impossible not to like, or even love.

Summary:

• Their own onsite farm outside the kitchen

• Only organic produce

• A menu that follows the seasons

• About 20 percent fish and meat — otherwise plant-based

• Their own impressive array of solar panels