Canadian chef Jonathan Tam, who previously worked at Noma and then as head chef at Relæ in Copenhagen, opened his first restaurant Jatak in January 2022. Here, the focus is Cantonese and Vietnamese dishes, which are flavorful, creative, and made from local and often organic produce. The interiors and the dishes are minimalistic, but there is no holding back on flavors, textures, and ideas. Try getting a seat at the bar, where you can sit front-row to see chef Tam and his talented colleagues creating their enduring dishes. Although they have high ambitions, there is a relaxed and self-evident attitude to sustainability. To them, it doesn’t have to be an ordeal.