Vannu

Go against the flow

When Eleven Madison Park stepped back from its strictly plant-based direction, parts of the industry exhaled—no longer bound by the either-or of flora versus fauna. For chef Gijs Kemmeren, though, the point was never exclusion. His cooking is about uncovering the breadth and depth of flora: vegetables from small-scale farmers, grains from regional mills, wines from biodynamic vineyards. Each ingredient is approached with a respect that drives the ambition to use it in its entirety. That same spirit of respect extends to the team, where four values guide the work: flexibility, development, involvement, and inclusivity.