Erki Saar, Tammuri Talu

Erki Saar, chef and owner at Tammuri Talu in Valga maakond, Estonia, how did you come to run Tammuri Talu all by yourself?

• This farm has been in my family since 1909. Before, I was living elsewhere in Germany and Estonia, working outside the restaurant industry entirely. But in 2007, I decided to move back here. When I arrived, I realized there wasn’t a restaurant within 70 kilometers. Initially, I thought I could source ingredients from local producers, but it turned out that most of them supply larger city restaurants that can afford to pay higher prices. So, to make it work, I’ve realized I have to produce, forage, and hunt nearly everything myself. It’s truly a one-man show.

What does that mean for your work-life balance?

I enjoy working, and I love gardening, so for me, there’s no need to draw a line between what I do for work and what I do for pleasure. I’m free. I’m free to do what I want when I want. Just now I was out picking mushrooms, and I didn’t think about whether it was work or not—I simply don’t see it that way.

Do you make any exceptions for ingredients that aren’t locally sourced?

• I do use salt and pepper, but I can also find things in nature that have a similar flavor profile. I also buy fish from a company, but I only use fish that is not bought by many others. Less wanted species and those of smaller size, such as Round goby, Tench and Ruffe.

Considering the distance, how do you handle waste and material use at Tammuri Talu?

• I hate food waste. I know exactly how many guests are coming, so I grow what I need, pick only the amount required, and prepare just what will be served. As for materials, I preserve food in vacuum bags, which I then use for cooking. This way, I don’t need to use pots that would require washing with water, soap, and energy. For the past seven years, I’ve had solar panels that provide more electricity than the house needs.