Pastoral perfection

It is not without pride that Paul Burgalieres, executive chef of Simon Rogan’s countryside fine dining institution L’Enclume, explains that eight out of ten vegetables served here are grown with organic methods in the restaurant’s own farm. The die-hard approach to seasonality means that a lot of what’s on the plates during winter has been preserved during more abundant times of the year. Luckily, the people seem to thrive equally well here. Simon Rogan even created an academy for young people who want to break into the industry as chefs or waiters. Needless to say, farming is an obligatory part of their education.