Although the atmosphere in the dining room is best described as professionally relaxed, the food is slightly more structured. The dishes are eclectic (the main ingredients are often local and come from small, conscious producers, whereas the flavors have a sophisticated edge) and have a bold aesthetic rarely seen in Scandinavia. The execution is artistic and the finish impressive. Furthermore, the food is brimful of flavor, though with an extreme lightness creating complex balance. Behind the scenes, there’s a structure for most matters, including those related to personnel.